Best of ATX: Dining & Nightlife

Jun 27, 2023

Transforming a former auto body shop in the Govalle neighborhood into a breezy, sun-bleached destination that looks like something plucked straight from Italy’s Amalfi Coast was certainly no small feat. But to really seize upon the escapist, vacation vibes they were aiming for, Erin Ashford (Olamaie) and John DiCicco (Kinda Tropical) knew they needed more than some cacti and xeriscaping. That’s why the hospitality duo pairs this laid-back environment with European-leaning bites like boquerones served with cultured butter to go along with a whole menu of martinis—including a chic frozen upgrade on Austin’s own Mexican iteration.

After scaling and mounting his flag in the pantheon of top Texas sushi masters, chef Michael Che still wasn’t satisfied. Knowing much remained to learn in the way of the ancient Edo-era style, which involves aging and curing fish, he closed his Mueller restaurant for almost seven months this year to train under Hiroyuki Sato at Hakkoku in Tokyo. Now, he’s back with an even more impressive, 21-course omakase menu with ingredients he’s importing himself from the best rice and seafood producers in all of Japan.

Curation is crucial when separating yourself from every other pint in town. It’s something Greg Maze learned in the world of sushi when apprenticing under Philip Speer at Uchi. Utilizing only the highest-quality ingredients, Maze creates culinary-minded confections that balance savory and sweet, like Monarch’s popular white miso with crumbled Oreos. Putting his pastry prowess to good use, he also forges all of his ice cream components in-house, from the crème fraiche cheesecake in a bourbon banana flavor to the sesame wafer cookies in a Hong Kong tea riff.

To reach this dimly lit haven at Shangri-La, guests must head to the back of the property, walk toward a green light (how very Gatsby!), and ring a doorbell before descending a narrow stairwell. Reminiscent of a Lower Manhattan lounge or a hidden Ginza bar in Tokyo, the bank-themed speakeasy remains sleek while still having a sense of humor, as evidenced by its bathroom door marked “Deposit.” Ask for one of the off-menu cocktails or put smart money on its espresso martini, which is one of the very best in town.

Never mind if the David Bowie allusion slipped right past you. The only thing that matters is Devin Broder’s flawless technique when it comes to New York–inspired bagels. A protégé of famed chef Jose Andres in D.C., Broder hand-rolls and slow-ferments each of his chewy, bubbly crusted creations. Flavored with organic heirloom grains and water he hacked to mimic the pH levels of New York City, they’re worth every minute spent in the inevitable hours-long lines he commands at the Mueller Farmers Market.

Despite seven years of selling their remarkable kimchi and kombucha at area farmers markets, this destination bakery from Ben and Phoebe Hollander remains Sunset Valley’s greatest secret. Opened last summer, the couple takes their flair for fermentation to the carb side with miso-tinged cookies, wonderfully misshapen Montreal-style bagels balancing smoked whitefish salad, and a pillowy, kraut-laced focaccia that will completely upend your sandwich game.

A fleet of some of the city’s most outstanding taco trucks couldn’t contain the ambitions of sisters Reyna and Maritza Vazquez, who are further exploring the cuisine of coastal Mexico at their latest brick-and-mortar in Mueller. Paying homage to their mother’s recipes—who once owned a fonda-style restaurant in Veracruz—the duo delves into the region’s lesser -known dishes: open-faced picadas crowned with marinated flank steak and licorice-y epazote-filled blue corn empanadas.

While the rest of the menu might lean Spanish and French, when it comes to the burger, chef Fermín Núñez takes his cues from his hometown of Torreón, Mexico. There, in the impromptu eateries that popped up in neighborhood garages, their approach to the dish always came with a signature slice of seared Fud-brand ham on top. At his new bar next to Este, he emulates that same practice, albeit with smashed 44 Farms beef patties, chipotle mayo, and a mound of chile-studded escabeche to cap it all off.

As veterans of the coffee industry, Kimberly Zash and Sara Gibson saw firsthand the gender inequalities that extended from the agricultural labor force in the field to the male-dominated ownership of your favorite java shop. Starting in 2022, the duo changed all that with their queer-based business that sources beans exclusively from women producers. In addition to supporting causes like Out Youth, and paying double the Fair Trade premium rate, its sustainable product overdelivers on quality. Being “feminist AF” never tasted so good.

With a name that translates to “naked” in Spanish, it’s obvious this popular East Austin spot is eager to highlight coffee in its purest form. And boy, does it ever. Sourcing beans from the same area of Colombia where they grew up, co-founders Juan and Sergio Trujillo are forging some of the most unique drinks in town. Yes, there are weekend-only megahits like its latte with fermented blueberries, but even your basic black drip is enough motivation to get you rolling out of bed with a sense of urgency.

Geoffrey Ellis’ way with pastrami hasn’t exactly been a well-guarded secret (i.e., the “mum” in Mum Foods) in quite some time. Falling-apart tender and bursting with coriander -rich flavor from a 10-day brine, the smoked meat has been a major draw at farmers markets for years. But at his new deli in the Springdale neighborhood, Ellis is able to broaden his reach with improved-upon standards such as house-baked brioche softened with beef tallow and a robust matzo ball soup that doesn’t hold back on fresh dill sprigs and chicken schmaltz.

Back home in the D.C.-area, doughnut shops were the preferred rendezvous for any late-night gathering. So, imagine his surprise when Andy Krupinski moved to Austin in 2010 and only found a handful of Krispy Kremes. Since that disappointing revelation, Krupinski began tinkering with opening his own concept to fill the void. Launched as a home-delivery model in 2019, Andy K’s continues to add coffee shop clients around town, with its all-natural offerings like a mango-chamoy fritter and a yeasted doughnut slathered in a cold brew concentrate glaze.

With pricey, pasture-raised chickens at their disposal, Underdog owners Claudia Lee and Richard Hargreave didn’t want to hide their fried chicken behind a wall of buttermilk batter. Consulting with Belles Hot Chicken founder Morgan McGlone, the duo was able to construct a proprietary crust that achieves the same shattery texture, while not disguising the juicy meat below. Flavored with a dusting of nori, the dish is an umami explosion that only becomes more beguiling when dunked into a ramekin of shiso ranch.

Ever since the pandemic, it’s become harder and harder to find the early evening deals that make dining out more financially feasible. But this Mexico City transplant brings us back to those halcyon days with cheap house margaritas (made from premium Monte Alban tequila) that clock in under 10 bucks. Signature carnitas tacos, nestled in house-made corn tortillas, are 40 percent off until 6 p.m. And standard guacamole can be embellished with ribeye trim that’s fried into elevated chicharrones.

Undoubtedly, the first thing you’ll notice entering this three-plus-decade-old shop is the temperature: a chilly 62 degrees that wouldn’t feel out of place in some subterranean cobblestone cellar. Then, there’s the spectacular selection itself, more than 2,000 different labels (most organic and biodynamic). The whole tableau might be overwhelming, if it weren’t for co-owner John Roenigk and his team always ready to lend their expertise. As Austin’s resident oenophile, Roenigk says he’s “never lost sight of good old-fashioned hospitality,” and it shows, as he procures his shop with customers directly in mind. For instance, if you like the taste of French Sancerre but can no longer afford the escalating price, he’ll dig until he finds a comparable sauvignon blanc from Lebanon or South Africa or other far reaches of the globe in his relentless pursuit of the perfect retail experience.

Clarksville’s unofficial mayor, Larry McGuire, says the selection of hot dogs at his diminutive dance club is the perfect embodiment of everything “classic and nostalgic.” That’s what he’s aiming for with a throwback lounge boasting a sparkling disco ball, a thumping deejay booth, and the velvet rope out front. Keeping with the classic vibe, Howards utilizes reliable ol’ Ball Park Franks that are dolled up with Spanish guindilla peppers, charred sauerkraut, and poppy seed buns from its sister restaurant, Swedish Hill Bakery.

Named after the tree that produces allspice berries, a key component to jerk seasoning, this East Riverside–area food truck nails everything associated with the aromatic West Indian fruit. Helmed by Jamaican-native Clay Spence, Mr. Pimento specializes in crispy, lightly charred chicken that’s marinated for 24 hours, slow smoked, and splashed in a tangy, tomato-based scotch bonnet sauce. There are even tempting vegetarian alternatives, with mushroom and jackfruit options, to go along with a showstopping cheddar-parm mac ‘n’ cheese.

Director of brewing operations Keith Shaw hails from San Diego’s vaunted Modern Times, so you know he’s got a firm grasp on everything hazy and hoppy. But founder David Childress, a veteran of the beer-making scene in LA and Louisville, has an overarching ethos of “inclusivity and creating something for every palate.” So, at this South Austin beer garden oasis just off I-35, you can happily sip far-ranging styles like a crushable Mexican lager and a smoked grodziskie wheat ale to go along with chef Emily Rayburn’s vegan-friendly bar menu.

This new eatery inside Hana World Market is gaining deserved attention for its gluttonous ramen bowls that blur the line between Japanese and Mexican street food, but it’s the other part of chef Christopher Krinsky’s menu that are the sneaky star attraction. Grilled over the clean, open-fire smoke of binchotan Japanese charcoal, Krinsky creates fusion yakitori tacos, such as a pork belly al pastor and an achiote-marinated Spanish octopus skewered with fingerling potatoes.

Alec Collins grew up three blocks from Philly cheesesteak mecca Pat’s King of Steaks, so he knows a thing or two about Pennsylvania’s most iconic sandwich. Using the same Amoroso rolls, shaved ribeye, and Kraft Cheez Whiz as those standard-bearers, he now recreates the magic of the dish in an ongoing pop-up series in his new home. Even more important than the grilled onions and butter-seared beef? “You’ll hear me and my brother (Jesse) fighting and arguing,” he says. “It’s an experience that actually feels like you’re in Philly.”

When Daniel Sorg and Townsend Smith were still operating out of their home garage, some local publications (*cough, cough) jumped the gun and declared Allday as one of the most important new restaurants in the city. Now operating out of a small walk-up counter at Flo’s in Tarrytown, we can say with confidence it’s still the most outstanding pizza in the city. A charred “New York–ish style,” these spectacular slices come adorned with toppings like homemade stracciatella and Calabrian honey.

The inviting early morning aroma of Jimmy Dean sausage biscuits is one of James Durham’s fondest childhood food memories. So, it should come as no surprise that testing the boundaries of his buttermilk muse has become something of a career obsession. Popping up on weekends at places like Low Down Lounge and Fleet Coffee, the full-time Kinda Tropical chef stacks and smothers his titular biscuits with ingredients ranging from cardamom-cured pork belly to scratch-made crawfish etouffee.

“Ramen can be whatever you want it to be,” says Daiboku’s Kris Hammond. To his point, the chef showcases two extremes of the liquid spectrum at his campus-area joint. One, a sophisticated smoked chicken shoyu that underscores restraint; the other, a gut-busting jirokei miso, true to its excessive Tokyo roots. The former boasts a crystalline broth with a French-like mushroom duxelles and butter-basted chicken thigh, while the porcine latter can be heaped with American cheese slices and crumbled Hot Cheetos. It’s that polarity that proves his bona fides and versatility, even in a superb ramen town.

A mashup of a hip coffee hangout and the city’s most stalwart vegan taco truck, Double Trouble marks an important milestone in the concept of conjoined culinary greats. Unlike those fast-food combos serving Whoppers with your Crunchwrap Supreme, this North Loop spot offers Barrett’s Coffee nitro cold brew to chase down Vegan Nom’s outstanding potato flautas capped with crema, shredded iceberg, avocado, and a fiery jalapeño aioli. Who would’ve guessed, crossovers are now cool.

Wine hospitality runs in Flo Clemens’ family (her father is the co-owner of Grove Wine Bar), so maybe the gastronome gene is just ingrained in her DNA. Regardless, the co-founder of this jam-packed Tarrytown watering hole has an intuitive understanding of what’s lacking when it comes to local libations: namely, something other than the natural wine bars sprouting faster than the fanwort engulfing Lady Bird Lake. Here, expect classic producers making varietally correct offerings, which all can be enjoyed in an environment that’s fun, never stuffy.

After the Herculean, seven-year undertaking that was restoring Uptown Sports’ 19th-century building on East Sixth, it’s a small relief to know that Aaron Franklin’s most ambitious venture lives up to the historic effort. A paean to the type of quintessential dishes the pitmaster and his business partner, James Moody, grew up eating in Louisiana, it particularly captures everything stuffed into imported Leidenheimer loaves. For example, a roast beef version that’s treated more like a Sunday roast. Jammed full of whole garlic cloves, dry-brined for 24 hours, then braised in beef stock, the meat comes out tender and flaky—ideal for soaking up a dark roux debris flecked with chunks of fried garlic and Franklin’s famous smoked brisket.